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香水

  Reading Explorer2 UNIT 7A 

  香水，总是使人将其和时尚，精致的奢华联系起来。

History Of Perfumes

选自：https://perfumencologne.com

编译：蜜雪老师

We all wear perfumes on a daily basis. 

But have you wondered how it came into existence or how it evolvedto be what it is today? 

That is exactly what you will learn from this article.

人们每天都用香水。但你有没有想过它是如何产生的，又是如何进化成今天这样的?这正是你将从本文中学到的，能帮助你更好理解课文香水的前生今世。 

01

Chapter 1

Egypt 埃及

Egyptians were the inventors of perfume. They thought it was the sweat of the sun god Ra.

They used it for religious and burial ceremonies and also forbeautification. 

Their God of perfume wore a head dress made of water lilies which was a major ingredient in their perfume. 

Archaeologists have also uncovered many Egyptian recipes andelaborate prescriptions for perfume-making. 

Only the rich elites had the luxury of adorning themselves with perfumes signifying their status.

As all ancient perfumes, the Egyptian perfumes had an oil base unlike many modern perfumes which have an alcohol base.

Egyptians imported huge amounts of perfume ingredients from Africa to an extent such that perfume trade was a big part of international relations for both of the regions.

  埃及人是香水的发明者。他们认为那是太阳神的汗水。

  他们把香水用于宗教和葬礼仪式，也用于美化作用。  他们的香水之神穿着一件睡莲做的头饰，睡莲是他们香水的主要成分。

  考古学家还在埃及发现了许多精密复杂的配方，用以制作香水。

  只有富有的社会精英们才能用香水这样的奢侈品来彰显他们的地位。  和所有的古代香水一样，埃及香水的基础是油，而现代香水的基础是酒精。

  埃及人当时从非洲进口了大量的香水原料，以至于香水贸易成为这两个国家国际关系的重要组成部分。

02

Chapter 2

Persia  波斯

The ancient Persian royal class was highly interested in perfumes. It was regular for rulers like Darius and Xerxes to be painted with perfume bottles in Persian art. 

The Persians dominated the perfume trade for a long time and it is believed that their innovations led to the discovery of the distillationprocess which led to perfumes having an alcohol base like we have today. 

Avicenna, the Persian doctor, chemist and philosopher experimented with distillation to try and make better scents and discovered the chemistry behind perfumes that weren’t oil-based.

  古代波斯王室对香水非常感兴趣。像达利斯和赛瑟斯（波斯王）这样的统治者经常用香水瓶来画波斯艺术。

  波斯人在很长一段时间里主导着香水贸易。人们相信是他们的创新导致了蒸馏过程的发现，蒸馏过程使得今天的香水具有了酒精基底。

  阿维森纳是波斯的医生、化学家和哲学家。他尝试试验用蒸馏来制造更好的气味，并发现了非油性香水背后的化学原理。

03

Chapter 3

Rome and Greece

罗马和希腊

The Persians made perfume as a sign of their political prowess, but the Romans and Greeks viewed it as an art-form and started producing it consistently.

In Rome, Perfume was often used in ancient societies to bring believers closer to the gods and perfume was used in beauty products, public baths and even on the soles of feet.

The ancient Greeks and Romans documented their perfume makingstrategies carefully.

  波斯人将香水作为其政治威力的象征，但罗马人和希腊人却将香水视为一种艺术，并开始持续生产香水。

  在罗马，香水在古代社会经常被用来拉近信徒与神的距离。香水被用于各种美容产品、公共浴室，甚至是人们的脚底。

  古希腊和罗马人详细记录了他们的香水制作方法。

04

Chapter 4

Mesopotamia and Indus Civilizations

美索不达米亚和印度河文明

A woman named Tapputi, the first recorded chemist was a perfume maker in Babylonian Mesopotamia. 

She developed techniques for scent extraction most notably techniques in using solvents.

These methods would eventually lay the foundation for perfume making. 

She recorded and passed on her techniques and methods. Perfumery also existed in the Indus civilization. 

One of the earliest distillation of oil was mentioned in a Hindu Ayurvedic text. They manufactured perfumes for royalty and queens of harems. 

  塔普提是巴比伦美索不达米亚第一个有记录的化学家，也是的香水制造者。她开发了气味提取技术，其中最著名的是溶剂提取技术。

  这些方法最终为香水的制作奠定了基础。

  她记录并传授她的技术和方法，香水也存在于印度河文明中。

  印度阿育吠陀文献中提到了最早的石油蒸馏之一。他们为皇室和后宫女王生产香水。

05

Chapter 5

Cyprus

 塞浦路斯

Archaeologists discovered a perfumery in Cyprus which is the oldest discovered perfume factory to date.

They say it was specialized in making perfumes which consisted of things like coriander, laurel, myrtle, lavender, and rosemary. 

The enormity of this site bears testimony to the fact that perfume was done on an industrial scale even 4000 years ago.

  考古学家在塞浦路斯发现了一家香水厂，这是迄今为止发现的最古老的香水工厂。

  据说这里专门制作香菜、月桂、桃金娘、熏衣草和迷迭香之类的香水。

  这个巨大的遗址证明了香水在4000年前就已经有了工业规模。

01

Chapter 6

Ancient China

古代中国

The ancient Chinese used fragrance by burning fragrant materials. 

They were quite unique in their use of fragrance as they didn’t used it primarily for cosmetic purposes.

They used it for food, medicine, disinfection and purity. They believed good aromas could eliminate diseases from rooms. 

However, according to Chinese chemistry historians, some dynasties used personal perfumes a lot. 

Nobles competed for the best scents and imported ingredients via the Silk Road. During the Qing dynasty, the emperor seems to have carried a “perfume pouch” year-round, which was stuffed with fragrant herbs. 

  古代中国人通过燃烧香薰材料来散发香味。他们在香水的使用上是非常独特的，因为他们不把它主要用于化妆目的。

  他们把它用于食品、医药、消毒和净化。他们相信好的香味可以消除房间里的疾病。然而，根据中国化学历史学家的说法，一些朝代经常使用个人香水。

  贵族们通过丝绸之路竞相购买最好的香水和进口原料。在清朝，皇帝似乎一年到头都带着一个“香囊”，里面塞满了香辛料。

07

Chapter 7

Medieval Europe

中世纪欧洲

Knowledge of perfumes in Europe existed since the 14th century. Some partially credit this to Arabic influences. 

Liquid perfume was first made in Italy when Aqua Mirabilis was made. Thereafter, Italy, especially Venice became the perfume capital of the world for several hundred years. 

Catharina de Medici initiated the perfume industry in Europe when she left Italy in the 16th century to marry the French crown prince. 

During the renaissance in Italy, perfume making prospered. They discovered that animal-based products made great bases for scents. The trend of carrying a perfume in a small bag spread throughout Europe. 

They thought perfumes could fend off infections which they thought were transferred through air almost all of the time. 

The idea for portable perfumes made its way to Europe through crusaders returning to their mother land bringing perfumes of their enemies’ home.

The first alcohol-based modern perfume which was called Hungary water was made by the Hungarians during the 14th century by the request of queen Elizabeth of Hungary. It used alcohol, oils and herbs. 

The demand in Europe for Hungary water was very high until Eau de Cologne came into existence in Germany. 

  关于欧洲香水的知识始于14世纪，有些人把这部分归功于阿拉伯的影响。

  液体香水最初是在意大利制造的。此后的几百年里，意大利，尤其是威尼斯成为世界香水之都。

  16世纪，卡萨琳娜·德·美第奇(Catharina de Medici)离开意大利，嫁给法国王储，开创了欧洲的香水产业。

  在意大利文艺复兴时期，香水的生产繁荣起来。他们发现动物产品是制造香味的重要基础原料。与此同时，用小袋子装香水的趋势传遍了欧洲。

  他们认为香水可以抵御感染，因为他们认为病菌都是通过空气传播的。  通过十字军战士回到他们的祖国，便携式香水被带到欧洲了。 

  14世纪，应匈牙利女王伊莉莎白的要求，匈牙利人制造了第一款以酒精为原料的现代香水，名为“匈牙利水”。它使用酒精、油和草药。

  在德国出现古龙水之前，欧洲对匈牙利水的需求非常高。

08

Chapter 8

The Middle East

中东

Since the 6th century, perfumes have been involved in Islamic culture for religious traditions since the use is instructed even in Islamic literature. 

Traditional duties as such gave incentives to scholars to develop cheaper and more efficient ways to produce scents.

Consequently, Islamic cultures contributed immensely to the advancement of Western perfumery in two significant aspects: perfecting the extraction of fragrances through steam distillation and in introducing new raw materials.

Both have greatly influenced Western perfumery and scientific developments, particularly chemistry.

  从公元6世纪开始，香水就已经融入了伊斯兰文化的宗教传统，因为使用香水甚至在伊斯兰文献中都有说明。

  传统的职责促使学者们开发出更便宜、更有效的方法来制造香味。

  因此，伊斯兰文化在两个重要方面极大地促进了西方香水的发展:通过蒸汽蒸馏完善香味的提取和引入新的原料。

  两者都极大地影响了西方香水和科学的发展，尤其是化学。

01

Chapter 9

England

英格兰

Scents were utilized in the highest rate in England during the rules of Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth I. 

Every single public place was scented during the time of Queen Elizabeth’s control, since she despised bad stenches. 

It was a thing of pride for women of the day to make fragrances. Similar to arts and industries, perfuming experienced a revolution of sorts in the nineteenth century. 

Changing tastes and the advancement of alchemy to chemistry helped in establishing the frameworks of current perfumery.

  在亨利八世和伊丽莎白一世统治时期，英国人使用香水的频率最高。

  在伊丽莎白女王统治时期，每个公共场所都散发着香味，因为她鄙视恶臭。

  制作香水是当时女性的骄傲。与艺术和工业相似，香水在19世纪经历了一场革命。

  对香味品味的改变和炼金术向化学的发展帮助建立了现代香水的框架。

10

Chapter 10

Russia

俄罗斯

After 1861, perfume manufacture in Russia grew and became globally recognized by the dawn of the 20th century. 

In the 1930s, the production of perfume in the Soviet Union became a part of the planned economy, but the output was not as high as expected.

1861年以后，俄罗斯的香水制造业发展壮大，并在20世纪初得到全球认可。

20世纪30年代，苏联的香水生产成为计划经济的一部分，但产量并没有预期的那么高。

11

Chapter 11

America

Explorers from New France brought colognes and scents to early America among which Florida water, a simple mixture of eau de cologne clove oil, cassia and lemongrass was famous. 

The Americans came up with the unisex fragrance which was a smooth fragrance that suited anyone.

  来自新法国的探险家把古龙水和香水带到早期的美洲，其中著名的是叫做“佛罗里达水”，这是一种简单的古龙水丁香油，桂皮和柠檬草的混合物。

  美国人发明了一种男女皆宜的香味，它是一种柔和的香味，适合任何人。

01

Chapter 12

Perfume in the Modern Age

Perfume making gradually increased as time went, and the population increased, and the world changed.

A significant change came in 1190, when perfume began to be produced commercially in Paris, and from there, it exploded into a massive industry. 

The French people’s willingness to explore unusual ingredients led to the discovery of iconic fragrances like Guerlain’s Shalimar.

In 1921, Chanel N°5, the first perfume made with synthetic ingredients, was made in Paris and remains the best-selling perfume of all time.

In the present, although France remains the center of perfume design and trade, America comes in a close second. 

Perfume is presently used almost every day by most people,.

Before work, a party or a wedding. It is used by everyone irrespective of social status or religion.

  随着时间的推移，香水制造逐渐增多，人口增加，世界也发生了变化。

  1190年发生了一个重大的变化，香水开始在巴黎进行商业生产，从那时起，它迅速发展成为一个庞大的产业。

  法国人乐于探索不同寻常的成分，这导致了像娇兰的沙利玛这样的标志性香水的发现。

  1921年，第一款合成成分的香奈尔5号香水在巴黎问世，它一直是最畅销的香水。

   目前，尽管法国仍然是香水设计和贸易的中心，但美国紧随其后。

  现在大多数人几乎每天都在使用香水。  上班前，参加派对或婚礼。不论社会地位或宗教信仰，人人都可以使用它。

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